Category Archives: Travel

La Fortuna – waterfalls, hanging bridges, volcano and more

Arriving in La Fortuna it was clear that it is very geared up for visitors. On the way into town all manner of hot springs and sloth experiences becon. I found my accommodation and asked for advice about trips and food. I booked two back to back full day tours. It nearly killed me, but these were indeed two fabulous albeit strenuous days.

I am scared of heights so I was not sure that I would be able to cross those hanging bridges. But, in the spirit of setting myself some challenges, I decided to go for it. It was a bit scary at times, but I thought of all those people in Musselburgh who made such great wire rope and reasoned that I would probably be safe. I survived. I would now like to return to Monteverde to visit Selvatura and do the hanging bridges there. Zip wire? Probably not yet.

I booked the accommodation in La Fortuna because it had a washing machine. The location was great, the flat was lovely and the hosts were truly marvellous. The washing machine, however, was a twin tub. I am guessing that many of you don’t even know what that is. I had only ever watched other people using them. You have to fill the water by hand, let the machine wash, drain by hand, rinse by hand, several times, then transfer the washing to the spinning tub. Still the labour saving device of its day, but I can imagine there has been many a bewildered millennial standing in front of that machine. I managed to get my washing done. It was time to head to the next stop.

Monteverde – toucans, coffee and the resplendent quetzal

After two weeks of the heat at the beach and with my head steaming from all the Spanish classes, I was glad to head to the mountains to cool down. My first tour was Curicancha Wildlife Reserve. We saw toucans, white collared peccaries, and all manner of birds and butterflies. We hiked through primary forest and admired some very big trees and the plants that live on and around them.

Toucan goes into the nest
…and out again

Next was a visit to the coffee plantation. I was in luck because the coffee was actually in bloom which happens for just four days each year. I learned a lot about coffee from seed to cup. The plantation we visited pays living wage to the pickers who come from the same village in Nicaragua each year. They also have a sophisticated system of making their own organic pesticides and fertilisers – that was our bonus lesson for the day.

It was very windy in Monteverde, so I dodged the hanging bridges park. I visited the Monteverde Cloud Forest National Park where we saw more amazing forest, creatures and plants. It was here that we managed to see the resplendent quetzal. It is estimated that only 50 000 of these birds remain. This picture from Wikipedia shows it better than my fuzzy one above.


In the afternoon, I tagged along with two lovely friends from the morning tour to visit a butterfly and insect exhibit. A very passionate entomologist introduced us to some of his special friends and then we strolled through different climate zones to see the butterflies.

The transfer from Monteverde to La Fortuna is fastest by the Jeep Boat Jeep method. We were driven about an hour or so to the lake and then crossed by boat and a minibus on the other side took us to La Fortuna.

Crocodiles at Tarcoles River

My keyboard stopped working, so the texts will be short from now on. At the end of my course at the beach I took a trip to Tarcoles river mainly to see the birds, but in fact, the big attraction there is the crocodiles.

Only two of us on the boat so we were able to get quite close to the birds and animals. We met three great crocodile personalities Lady Gaga, who is blind in one eye Shakira, who has three little babies, and Mike Tyson who is 6 m long and weighs 800 kg.

Baby crocs one week old
Mike Tyson’s head
Mike’s face

After meeting with crocodiles, we took the boat into the mangrove swamp, and saw lots and lots of birds.

Manuel Antonio National Park

After one week of Spanish course, I was more than ready to start meeting the wildlife of Costa Rica. Three German co-students and I took the first bus at 6am for the two hour trip to Manuel Antonio. We had arranged a guide who met us at the park gates with two further guests. Before we even entered the park we saw howler monkeys in the trees. We later learned that these monkeys have abandoned the park in favour of locations where there is tourist food to be scavenged.

Within the first fifteen minutes, we saw the three creatures below: the beautiful hummingbird, some kind of wee crab that lives inland and grows its own algae for food and the Jesus Christ lizard, so named because it can walk on water. The photos were taken through the guide’s telescope.

What we really wanted to see was sloths. One of my German friends was on her last day after three weeks in Costa Rica and had not seen one yet. She was all ready with a massive paparazzi type camera. We took a few more steps in to the park – and there it was high in a tree.

Our walk continued, and then we spotted another sloth, an adolescent male. He was on the move down from the tree. The guide informed us that they only come down once a week – to do their toilet business. We were told to stand well back, be silent and wait. Once the sloth had finished his business, he decided not to go back up the same tree, but rather to cross the path. This is a very rare sight, apparently.

And so we watched the sloth cross the road and then climb up on the other side. High up on the other side, we spotted another adolescent male, which might explain why the sloth crossed the road. Those two faced each other off for a bit, but did not come to blows.

As our tour continued we saw more wildlife – squirrel monkeys, capuchin monkeys, bats, iguanas, white tailed deer, flightless birds, and many more creatures that I’ve never even heard of. We rounded off the day with a dip in the sea and lazed around on the beach for a bit before taking the long bus journey back to Jaco.

Sloth climbs down from tree…..
Sloth crosses the path
Sloth climbs up tree at the other side to pick a fight with another adolescent sloth.
Smiley sloth face

Manuel Antonio National Park

Costa Rica at last

The long awaited trip to Costa Rica has finally happened and I thought I’d use the opportunity to revive this blog. You’ll have to bear with me a bit because my WordPress skills are very rusty.

I flew with Iberia and had a lovely view of the alps from the plane, followed by a view of more arid Spanish countryside. On the long flight I watched all the films I had missed at the cinema. I thought I should watch one in Spanish and chose Llena de Gracia -which translates as Full of Grace. Turns out it is the true story of some famous Spanish footballer.

I spent the first few days in Santa Ana near the school my niece attends to get used to the heat and adjust to the time zone. I love a market, so my first outing was to the San Jose central market.

On Sunday there is a farmers market in Santa Ana around the church, so I wandered along at 6am for a look.

The Ruster Loop – great day trip from Vienna

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The day trip round Neusiedlersee is one of my favourites from Vienna.  All visitors are taken there, and I often go, just like that to inspect the storks and geese and wine. Friends from another country, CarlosNotTheJackal and his wife, the KiwiKween were in town to inspect Vienna as a potential location for their next life phase.  IMG_1152

It was Sunday and we had no need of motorways, so we drove through sleepy little villages and got to Rust in time for a look around and an early lunch.  Rust is the “urban” highlight of the World Heritage Site and is particularly proud of its role as host for storks who arrive in Spring to raise their young.

stork count

13 pairs, 38 young and 1 single=65 storks in total. The one single is there all year round as he cannot fly.

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We managed to arrive just a little before the busloads of German tourists and enjoyed a walk around this beautiful village.  Storks are the main attraction, but meanwhile, some shops have appeared selling things that people with time on their hands like to buy: ceramics, decorative items, baskets, wine coolers, artisan groceries and of course, wine.

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More people passing through is not necessarily a bad thing:  Rust now offers a couple of upmarket restaurants, cafes and overnight accommodations.  When I first came here in the previous century, it was schnitzel and candlewick bedspreads.

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Next to Rust, is the border village of Mörbisch.  You can walk into Hungary.  Before Schengen, and Hungary’s accession in 2004 to the European Union, cyclists and pedestrians could have their passports stamped here.  Mörbish, although so close to Rust, looks totally different, the houses being all white and arranged in terraces perpendicular to the road.

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On one such alley, we found a charming little fixer upper with two staircases that might do CarlosNotTheJackal and the KiwiKween as a project.IMG_0549

But once we crossed into Hungary and stopped off on the Hungarian side at Fertod Castle, this dual staircase abode was preferred.IMG_0552

Fertod castle has been restored and is a venue for festivals and concerts.  Haydn spent the summers here with the Esterhazy family.  Opposite the castle there is pretty market selling leather goods, plant pots, sheepskin rugs, paprika, salami and jam.  And why not?

Wine festivals are held in most of the villages during the summer.  My trips this year took me to one in Mörbisch, where only the bar staff were in the mood for dancing.staff start off the dancing

In Rust, the local brass band was celebrating its 40th anniversary.  Look at the joy on the faces of the people.  Perhaps they were just concentrating on their grilled chicken or schnitzel. We found a very nice lunch at Buschenschank Schandl and on other trips, we have been well looked after at the Hofgassl restaurant.

cheerful facesOur journey round the lake continued, back into Austria at Apetlon and on through the villages on the other side of the lake.  They make Eiswein here.  Last stop before we leave the lakeside for the motorway back to Vienna is Podersdorf.  paddlers enjoying the water Podersdorf is much loved by the surfers and the atmosphere here is much more holiday.  One lakeside cafe offers live entertainment with someone singing songs from the 50s 60s,70s and 80s.  German and Austrian tourists dance a strange kind of quick step while others sing along.  Down near the lighthouse is the perfect bar for watching the sunset with a cocktail.  And then it’s time to get back to the motorway and back to the city.  A trip round Neusiedlersee, however short, always feels like a little holiday.IMG_0568


http://www.schandlwein.com/index.php?node_id=Buschenschank;3&lang_id=1

http://www.hofgassl.at/

http://www.eszterhaza.hu/de/startseite

http://www.rust.at/index.php/unesco-world-heritage.html

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/772/

A trip to Verona

“How’s July treating you?” asked a friend in an e-mail.  Well, my July was rather mixed since we heard of the untimely death of a dear friend. News like that makes you focus on what is important.  So, in a seize the day mood, I arranged a trip to Verona to meet up with my friend Miss Maggie and her partner the NearlyFamousAuthor. A long weekend. A very long weekend. 5 days to be exact. Booking this late, the hotels were very expensive, so I took a chance and booked a lovely apartment in the centre of the old town via airbnb.com.  IMG_0693There are no flights to Verona from here, and it is more than 7 hours by car, so I opted for the 8 hour train journey with a 30 minute change in Innsbruck. In fact, there is probably no nicer way to travel to Verona. The scenery along the route is spectacular.

IMG_0606 IMG_1028 IMG_1026As soon as I arrived, it was straight to the Arena to hear Placido Domingo sing Verdi. Miss Maggie is almost Veronese, she has been there so many times, so I was glad that she and the NearlyFamousAuthor had bought my ticket and brought along cushions and wine and umbrellas. Placido sang. During the break we felt a storm brewing, so we slipped out to grab the best people watching seats at Caffe al Teatro. Caffe al Teatro is the kind of place that becomes your local.

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Next day, I had the performance of Carmen to look forward to. My friends could not face another evening of sitting on the stone steps, so I bought a ticket for a seat. The seats were even less comfortable than the steps, but a lot more expensive. The Carmen production is a colourful and over the top display by Zefferelli. I loved it.

IMG_0627IMG_0679IMG_0645IMG_0670IMG_0680As if seeing Carmen was not enough of a treat, Aida was playing on the Sunday evening. So, back to the stone steps with my hired cushion, plastic poncho and a little plane sized bottle of wine complete with plastic cups courtesy of Miss Maggie. The NearlyFamousAuthor had seen the previous Zefferelli production of Aida at the Arena and did not want the wonderful memory of that “spoiled” by this futuristic display. Anyway, my first time in Verona, I was not going to miss the Aida, no matter what the production. As it was, this display was bonkers with elements of Dr Who, War Horse, Cirque du Soleil, the London Olympics opening ceremony, Lion King and a whole lot more.  It was a hugely entertaining spectacle and the children present loved it.  I must confess I was glad of the spectacle because I am not a huge fan of the Aida music.IMG_0904IMG_0910IMG_0956IMG_0943IMG_0930IMG_0951IMG_0942IMG_0940IMG_0916The sets for the productions are stored outside the arena and lifted in by crane in the daytime.

IMG_0852IMG_0848IMG_0851IMG_0846What with the late nights at the opera, and the heat, I decided not to cross water and to focus on seeing as much of the old town as possible. And so I have unfinished business in Verona and shall have to return to look down on the city from this hill. IMG_0717Verona is such a charming city.  Leave the main streets and see what you can find in the little alleys and courtyards.

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At the Opera Museum, this giant rose is taken from a production of Rigoletto.

 

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At Juliet’s house, visitors are invited to leave their messages of eternal devotion on the wall. Not sure I like the sticking plaster idea. I hope they are not used.

 

Two broads in Norfolk

I was invited to a wedding in Norfolk.  I had never been to Norfolk.  In fact, even though I have visited many foreign countries, I don’t know my homeland nearly well enough. The wedding was held in a lovely country hotel and so we thought we might as well get to know the area a bit.

The journey

Heathrow Airport, Friday afternoon. 

My friend, Miss Maggie of maggiesmagicpantry.blogspot.com took the bus from her home to Heathrow and arrived at around the same time as my plane.  We had a short wait for the shuttle bus to the Sheraton Skyline where we were to pick up the rental car.  After signing away all my rights to everything ever and agreeing that I would take full responsibility for Armageddon and the like and would compensate the car rental company for any associated losses, we took possession of a silver Ford Focus Automatic.  Not the M25, please not the M25.  But the M25 it was.  Needless to say we missed our exit to or from the M25 and we had to take a detour back round the freight terminal of LHR.  Once on the M25, you know that you are there forever.  And so it was.  And it rained.  And rained. And there was no need for the automatic transmission because we did not go fast enough to get out of first gear.  For about 3 hours.  Once we were off the motorway, the journey was much more fun and we passed through some pretty English villages, but thoughts of dinner waiting stopped us from taking photos.  About 5 hours after leaving Heathrow, we arrived at the hotel.

Saturday morning tour of the village 

The beautician at the Heacham Manor Spa managed to deal with the eyebrow emergency and I considered myself fit to appear at the wedding. After a delicious Heacham Manor breakfast, we went off to inspect the village.  First priority when at the coast is always to get that glimpse of the horizon that frees my mind.  A wifie in a high visibility jacket approached as we neared the car park to ask if we were there for the beach clean up.  She clearly had not noticed the new hair cut, the little diamond earrings and the beautifully sculpted eyebrows.
 
 
This was my first view of the Norfolk coast which I had only ever studied on OS maps in geography lessons.  The huts at Heacham are not quite as twee as the ones I saw on my South coast trip last year, but they surely give a lot of pleasure to their owners.
 

Get me to the Church on time 

We arrived back at the hotel just in time to get into our finery and make our way to the Church.  It had been raining a bit, so we decided to take the car.  There was no chance of anyone getting lost between the hotel and the church thanks to the great signposting.  We arrived at the church at the same time as the vicar pulled up in his muddy Land Rover.  He looked rather scruffy, and I hoped that he had a nice vestment to wear.  As it was, and unlike in the Roman Catholic church, he had decided not to outdo the bride and therefore wore a simple white surplice over a black cassock.  The wedding reception was wonderful in every way and we enjoyed meeting interesting people in great surroundings sustained by enormous amounts of great food and drink and cake.  Wonderful Norfolk hospitality.  
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Inspecting the AONB Norfolk Coast 

Our Norfolk based table friends had given us lots of tips for places to visit on Sunday.  Our plan was to drive to Cromer stopping off here and there along the way.

A crab sandwich and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc  

It was only 10.30 and half an hour since breakfast, but it still took all the willpower we could muster not to have a little snack at this crab shack.  The final convincing argument was that the crab shack does not offer SB and we were sure we’d find that essential combination a little bit further along the coast.  Sure enough, a little later, in Wells, we found just the place.

Getting the spiders out of your brain  

Norfolk has huge skies.  It is flat, so when the wind blows, it goes right through your ears and whizzes around inside your head blowing out dust and spiders that have been there forever.
 
We pootled along the coast stopping wherever it took our fancy and enjoying the prettiness of it all.  You could have a great week’s holiday spending a day in each of the little towns villages and beaches we stopped at.
 

Turnaround at Cromer to go back 

The crab and wine box ticked, we made our way to Cromer.  A cup of coffee was in order.  After all, we had been on the road all day.  I felt strangely drawn to a sky blue hut.   Miss Maggie was sceptical and insisted on going inside to check the coffee machine before she would let me out of the car.  There must have been a large chrome steamy monster of a machine, because Miss Maggie soon returned and we raced to see which one of us could feed the pay and display first.  As we waited for our coffee, Miss Maggie muttered something about cake.  Lemon cake.  Now, normally I would have lemon cake with tea, but the coffee was ordered.  We agreed to share a piece of lemon cake.  It was buttery and lemony and tangy and delicious.  The other guests were priceless caricatures of English seaside residents and day trippers.  Two old crones sat side by side, facing outwards and commenting life the universe and everything.   One of them was wearing a checked woollen headscarf.  No photos: neither of us could quite manage to take photographs of random people.  And I don’t take selfies when I am wearing a headscarf.
 
 
We still had a bit of time, and so we could return to Heacham via the coast road and see how it all looked in the evening light and from the other side.  How lucky we were to happen upon this bluebell wood.

Final sunset in Heacham 

We arrived back at Heacham Manor just in time for a last Norfolk sunset and spent the evening in the hotel lounge.  It was eerily quiet after all the activity of the previous days.  If you have not been to Norfolk, go. It really is a special place.

shepherd’s pie approved for cabin baggage

Last weekend, I took a short trip to icecreammecca to catch up with friends and family.  Wur crew (our pet name for the classy team that are Ryanair cabin personnel) were late for once and it was after midnight when I arrived at my house.  Saturday there was lunch with aunties and cousins and sisters at Mrs. Formans.  I remembered a red flock wallpapered pub where my grandad would take a glass or so with his cronies.  How it has changed.

On Sunday, I hoped to surprise my friend wifiewhogoesforlunch for her birthday.  She had decided to go for a jaunt, but her sneaky brother, arbiteroftaste picked me up in his cool car and chased through the Scottish countryside to catch up with them.  We had a nice walk at Bracklinn Falls and then we went back to their house. Her husband, blokewhogoesfishing cooked us a lovely Sunday dinner.  That’s where the shepherd’s pie comes in.  I had bought one of Tesco’s finest to have for dinner on Sunday.  What to do with the shepherd’s pie?

Sunday evening was spent studying the various sites and advice about what one may take in cabin baggage.  Yoghurt, 100 mls only in your clear plastic bag with your toothpaste and haemorrhoid cream.  Jam, same.  Salsa, no. Peanut butter, no.  Salad dressing, no.  But not a word about shepherd’s pie.  Gravy is expressly forbidden.  I wondered how much gravy is in finest shepherd’s pie. I decided to risk it.  

On Monday, I had Lunch with horseysis, highheelsis and legallyniece in Bar Sygn and then it was off to the airport. I prepared myself for the shepherd’s pie security screening.  After an airport coffee with wifiewhogoesforlunch, I made my way airside.  I travel without belts and jewellery and all the other stuff that slows things down at security, so I am normally through fairly fast.  I was looking forward to providing some entertainment for the other travellers with my shepherd’s pie.  I imagined their puzzled faces at the sight of a shepherd’s pie in the confiscated items bin.  I saw their pitying smiles as I explained the lack of internet guidance on mince and mashed potato dishes.  I visualised them at their destinations telling how somewifie tried to take shepherd’s pie on a plane.

It was my turn.  I unzipped my shiny new purple suitcase and took out my laptop.  The shepherd’s pie was safe in the other compartment with the bacon and cheese.  I stepped through the archway.  No beep.  We had almost made it, my shepherd’s pie and me.  Then my bright purple case was moved from the conveyor belt to the table where they put items for hand searching.  I was all set to lose my shepherd’s pie.  I waited as non English speakers were divested of their shaving foam and shampoo.  

The lady with the latex gloves turned to her colleague.  “What’s in this one?” she asked, indicating the lovely shiny purple case.  He shrugged.  “Is this yours?” she asked in an almost threatening tone.  I nodded.  My mind was scanning the empty fridge in porkandcabbageland looking for an alternative dinner.  “I am just going to test the outside” she said.  She took a cotton wool swab and wiped over the shiny purple polycarbonate.  She put the cotton wool swab in a device which confirmed the non-explosive nature of the polycarbonate.  My shepherd’s pie had passed the test.


Grumpygermanman

One of the things I like to take a holiday from is speaking German. On this trip, I had the transfer to the hotel with a German couple.  We spoke German at the airport and on the journey to the hotel.  They asked where I came from.  When I told them, he said “Bad place. Bad weather. Narrow roads”  I did not see them for days after that and so I could enjoy my holiday eavesdropping German conversations without anyone knowing that I am understanding what they are saying.  


Not that they were saying anything interesting.  I was treated to a detailed description of a forthcoming home cinema installation; a rant about how children should not be allowed to go on holiday; a conspiracy to persuade (left behind) children to become vegetarian; a recommendation for christian religious music in the Malayalan language.  You have to eavesdrop a lot of conversations to harvest anything more interesting than cheese purchases. 


Towards the end of my stay I bumped into grumpygermanman again.  “We shall be leaving together” he informed me in a tone that inferred that that would be something for me to look forward to.  As I settled my bill (just INR 125 for some laundry) the receptionist took a telephone call.  “I am sorry sir, they will finish by around 9.15pm” the receptionist said.  By that I realised that someone was ranting about the “infernal noise” from the music and dance presentation on the open air stage.  Go too far back on that stage and you are over the cliffs into the sea.  Somehow the face and voice of grumpygermanman flashed through my mind.


Sure enough at 1.30 am when we met for our departure that was one of his 1001 points to complain about.  His litany lasted all the way to the airport.  I took my seat in the plane.  Who was right behind me?  Oh yes.  There he was.  At the end of the flight he presented his addendum of complaints.  Worst flight ever apparently.  I fly a lot.  I had my tempur transit pillow (best thing ever) and my ipod (even better thing ever).  I had an on demand entertainment system.  I had a comfy seat and great service.  grumpygermanman had 101 things to complain about.


Poor grumpygermanman.  We had the same holiday.  I came home relaxed and happy.  Grumpygermanman, I fear, returned to his office on the Monday morning to be renamed evengrumpiergermanman.