The day trip round Neusiedlersee is one of my favourites from Vienna.  All visitors are taken there, and I often go, just like that to inspect the storks and geese and wine. Friends from another country, CarlosNotTheJackal and his wife, the KiwiKween were in town to inspect Vienna as a potential location for their next life phase.  

It was Sunday and we had no need of motorways, so we drove through sleepy little villages and got to Rust in time for a look around and an early lunch.  Rust is the “urban” highlight of the World Heritage Site and is particularly proud of its role as host for storks who arrive in Spring to raise their young.

We managed to arrive just a little before the busloads of German tourists and enjoyed a walk around this beautiful village.  Storks are the main attraction, but meanwhile, some shops have appeared selling things that people with time on their hands like to buy: ceramics, decorative items, baskets, wine coolers, artisan groceries and of course, wine.

More people passing through is not necessarily a bad thing:  Rust now offers a couple of upmarket restaurants, cafes and overnight accommodations.  When I first came here in the previous century, it was schnitzel and candlewick bedspreads.

Next to Rust, is the border village of Mörbisch.  You can walk into Hungary.  Before Schengen, and Hungary’s accession in 2004 to the European Union, cyclists and pedestrians could have their passports stamped here.  Mörbish, although so close to Rust, looks totally different, the houses being all white and arranged in terraces perpendicular to the road.

On one such alley, we found a charming little fixer upper with two staircases that might do CarlosNotTheJackal and the KiwiKween as a project.

But once we crossed into Hungary and stopped off on the Hungarian side at Fertod Castle, this dual staircase abode was preferred.

Fertod castle has been restored and is a venue for festivals and concerts.  Haydn spent the summers here with the Esterhazy family.  Opposite the castle there is pretty market selling leather goods, plant pots, sheepskin rugs, paprika, salami and jam.  And why not?

Wine festivals are held in most of the villages during the summer.  My trips this year took me to one in Mörbisch, where only the bar staff were in the mood for dancing.

In Rust, the local brass band was celebrating its 40th anniversary.  Look at the joy on the faces of the people.  Perhaps they were just concentrating on their grilled chicken or schnitzel. We found a very nice lunch at Buschenschank Schandl and on other trips, we have been well looked after at the Hofgassl restaurant.

Our journey round the lake continued, back into Austria at Apetlon and on through the villages on the other side of the lake.  They make Eiswein here.  Last stop before we leave the lakeside for the motorway back to Vienna is Podersdorf.   Podersdorf is much loved by the surfers and the atmosphere here is much more holiday.  One lakeside cafe offers live entertainment with someone singing songs from the 50s 60s,70s and 80s.  German and Austrian tourists dance a strange kind of quick step while others sing along.  Down near the lighthouse is the perfect bar for watching the sunset with a cocktail.  And then it’s time to get back to the motorway and back to the city.  A trip round Neusiedlersee, however short, always feels like a little holiday.

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http://www.schandlwein.com/index.php?node_id=Buschenschank;3&lang_id=1

http://www.hofgassl.at/

http://www.eszterhaza.hu/de/startseite

http://www.rust.at/index.php/unesco-world-heritage.html

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/772/